| Jia's profileJiaPhotosBlogLists |  Tools  Help |
|
June 23 SHAKESPEARE GLOBE亏得有周姐姐的帮忙, 我在柏林学习和旅游的两周时间多了很多乐趣, 又亏得她迅速地把帮我拍的照片以第一的速度寄过来, 好让我一补在德国没有相机的遗憾. 照片自然是好的, 更要感谢的是照相的人. 于是, 我也把我在SHAKEPEARE GLOBE的两张照片放了上来, 期待着在这个暑假, 我会再回到这个独一无二的剧院, 捕捉更多的美好时刻, 以和大家共享.
说来也很惭愧, 我在伦敦也有四年了, 居然到了今年夏天才第一次走进这个仿十七世纪风格的沙士比亚剧院.说是仿实在是有点委屈了它. 剧院是老老实实按照当时的设计重建的, 全木制, 露天, 还特意营造了陈旧的感觉, 舞台的柱子都有了岁月的痕迹, 可见设计者的用心良苦, 连这种细节也不放过, 誓要让观众领略十七世纪沙翁剧作的真缔. 看完了TITUS ANDRONICUS我才意识到我前面三年的损失有多大. 从欧洲游历归来, 我苦恼伦敦生活真实的一面, 房东又有佛学大会要在家里举行, 一咬牙, 我决定再次回GLOBE在寒风中站立三个半小时, 一睹CORIOLANUS, 一部被誉为沙翁最成功的政治剧. 和TITUS ANDRONICUS相比, 这一回观众们少了好许血腥的场面, 更多了一种身如其境的感觉. 我们又回到了罗马, JOCOBIAN服饰的群众演员在我们中穿梭, 在拥挤的人群吵嚷着, 仿佛我就是罗马居民的一员. 演员应该来自ROYAL SHAKESPEARE COMPANY, 又以JONATHAN CAKE引人注目, 独立报更是用以下的词句赞扬道: 'Cake is a crowd-pleasing action hero, inspiring gasps as he conquers the Volscian foe like some full-scale version of Tom Cruise in Mission Impossible CDXCIII BC'.
我喜欢沙翁,虽然是剧作,却处处流畅着诗的韵律,悲哀也好,欢喜也罢,充斥着人性和人情.建议和我一样傻却至今不曾一访GLOBE的人去看一场独一无二的沙剧.
June 20 Italy我又回到了伦敦 , 回程的飞机是BA, 结果还是误点了, 困在柏林的机场, 和激动的人群一起看巴西队的比赛, 也算是世界杯的又一种体验. 说来也怪, 三个礼拜, 一转眼就过去了, 开心的日子过的实在是太快了.我来英国四年, 快乐的日子虽然不少, 但是不高兴的日子也是数不胜数, 这次毕业旅行总算是让我重新拾回了少年时的无忧无虑的感觉. 歌德曾说过, 在罗马的日子是他最快乐的, 我也有同感, 不过总体而言, 意大利是一个让人容易快乐的国家, 披萨外加冰激淋, 都让人很有满足感.
意大利人的热情是世界闻名, 我总以为该国地处地中海, 阳光充足, 所以孕育的百姓也是如太阳般热情四射. 就是中国人在此处宝地呆久了, 也深受影响, 乐观而助人为乐. 这不, 我就在火车票的问题上得到了中国同仁的帮助.
可是, 不要以为意大利是一个很发达的国家. 七八十年代的经济起飞已经是遥远的记忆, 最新的痛楚是加入欧元后的物价上涨. 虽然比起英国的伦敦, 这里的消费要低一些, 但还是没有想象中的来得便宜. 好在我此行的目的不是省钱, 也就把预算的问题一起抛在英伦海峡了.
罗马的壮观自然是无人不知, 无人不晓的, 但是很少人知道罗马的排队的场景更为壮观. 我去ST PETER BASILICA前的广场时还是早晨, 进ST PETER也就几乎没排队, 可是从教堂出来, 去VATICAN 博物馆, 我稀里糊涂就排上了队, 也没想这队有多长, 最后进了博物馆我才意识到那壮观的队伍足足有两公里, 好在也就半小时的工夫, 不然我真会后悔. 可别误会, VATICAN MUSEUM是无论排多长的队都值得的啦. 斬且不说那SISTIN CHAPEL, 就是历代教皇的对于希腊时代的小雕塑的收藏就很惊人了. 这些小件的雕塑品虽不及陈列在八角亭中的物品那么知名, 却有精雕细刻的耐人寻味, 其神态自若, 动作幽雅, 实在是历代雕塑家执着追求的典范. 其中又有一吹笛男孩尤其惹人可爱, 雪白的大理石的身躯, 光滑得透亮, 隐隐可见的石脉仿佛是男孩的透蓝的血管, 小小的脑袋, 俊秀的脸庞, 向右肩侧着, 目光也不和我对视, 眼睛似闭未闭, 一副极陶醉的模样. 我在心里恋爱着, 亏得这雕塑的不宏大, 才不用在露天日晒雨淋, 历尽两千年, 仍神态自若地向我们展示古希腊文明的艺术成就.
走过无数精美装饰的GALLERY, 最令我惊叹的是地图室. 15世纪的制图自然是不精确的, 与其说是科学的展示, 不如说是画家的无比的想象和对圣经故事的阐述. 这不仅体现在了地图中, 更是在一百多米长的画廊的天花板上作足了文章, 简直就到了无以复加的地步.
两周后, 我又在柏林的MARTIN GROPIUS BAU看了BAROK IN VATICAN 的展览, 虽然物件中也有BERNINI等名家的作品, 但是脱离了VATICAN博物馆的设置, 在感官上是决达不到相同的效果的.
相同的对比也在柏林老博物馆中得到了体现. 该馆的古希腊和古埃及的藏品是世界一流.该建筑本身也是以NEO-CLASSICS为基本的设计理念, 甚至还有一PANTHEON的翻版, 可是终究是没有原件的朴实而静肃的震撼效果. 在这里, 在这最古老的而又最完整的建筑里, PRE-CHRISTIANITY的痕迹得以保存, 没有VATICAN的奢华, 在充满天文含义的对原始世界的崇拜的大理石地面下, 躺着意大利最伟大的艺术家之一, 拉斐尔. 他的墓志铭写道: This is Raphael's tomb, while he lived he made Mother Nature fear to be vanquished by him and, as he died to die too.
June 19 Coming backAfter almost three weeks holiday, I am back in London. The air is much cooler here, so is my mood. The first thing I did next morning is to check my results. In German there is a word 'Naja', similarly I create a new word 'surprisingly and not surprisingly' I get rather bad results. Surprising as I am expecting something far better. But not surprising that during my exams, I was so distracted. Or another explanation is the strike. Whether it is due to the bad mood of the on-going strike of lecturers, I have no idea. I can only appreciate my good luck to secure myself a first class.
So let me go back to my holiday. The days in Italy is the happiest days I have ever had. Even though the first thing I read back home is my bank statement and honestly, the figure does startle me a lot, I think it worth it. Italy is unique in terms of richness. The signs of famous sites on the map of Rome surely indicates something wonderful. But even just pop into any of hundreds if not thousands of churches, I am completely enchanted by them. So at the end, I am just like the old Grannie's first entry in the Grand Garden. Now I can hardly recall the names of the churches or basilicas, but what remains is the ever lasting image of Rome as a city of Aesthetics.
I did not use the word religion. To me, the churches are maintained as the best setting and galleries. But it is very seldom that these sacred places are packed with worshippers. Is that because there are too many churches for the city or because St Peter overrules all of them? I do not know. As a tourist, I cannot feel the importance of a local church for local residents and indeed St Peter is the most richly decorated church in the world.
So when I move on to Germany, Berlin Dome is less impressive. The Historic Museum is a good place to know the past of the country and there I learnt the Reformation and the Innocence. My visit to Leipzig, especially the St Thomas church inspired me that German people make their church grand through music. Here, Bach's works are played every Saturday. More special is that the music is not in the form of concert but the form of service. Particularly, on the service note, all the attenders are kindly reminded that not too applaud when the music ends. |
|
|
